The Making of a Suit- Savile Row,London A quick guide to suits and how they are made in Savile Row. Domenico Calerghi
Savile Row
Known
for its custom suits since the 19th century, this street in London's
Mayfair district was frequented by English aristocracy. Today, the
modern gentleman can still find the classic style of English tailoring
from more than a dozen specialty craftsmen on Savile Row. From
politicians and financiers to entertainers, this tradition established
more than150 years ago is still the garment of choice.
What you Need to Know Made-to-Measure, Semi Measure or Off-the-Rack
Made to Measure is custom cut to your body's silhouette and proportions
Semi Measure is pre-cut and has unfinished arms and legs that will be fitted to your measurements.
Off-the-Rack is finished with extra material in the arms, waist, and leg for required tailoring
French, Italian, or English Silhouette The English have natural shoulders while French and Italian have padding.
Natural
shoulder is for the more athletic body shapes, while the European style
can help you fake what God didn’t give you. English suits have higher
waistlines in the pants and work well with suspenders. The French
waists are at the navel, and the Italian suits have a low waist line. A
good bespoke tailor will help you determine the best way to cover up
your waist area.
The European suits will have a softer, sportier look while the English suits, a much more strict and astute look.
The Process With
a minimum of $2,500 and four weeks, you can be on your way to your
first bespoke English suit. The good news is that after the first
fitting, you can arrange to have your fitting in major American cities
as most of the Savile Row tailors travel. Once you have your first
suit made, the tailors will keep your measurements.
Fitting #1 Choose
your style, cut, and fabric with the tailor who will be appointed to
you. An honor is then carried out, and the various parts of the suit
then are assembled.
Fitting #2 This consists of a semi
structured suit that you model for the tailor. He may rip the sleeves
off, re-measure your lapel, and add a little material here and take off
a little material there.
Fitting #3 When the corrections
noted in your second fitting are complete, you model the
almost-complete masterpiece for the tailor to finalize.
Fitting #4 This is the big day: you arrive for your final try-on or have it sent to you for your Final Approval.
Choosing the Fabric With
air conditioning in the summer and sometimes over heated rooms in the
winter, your choices for suit fabrics can vary. The lighter the weight
of the material category the more expensive, as it requires more
thread. Typical fabrics include cashmere, linen, silk, flannel, and
cotton.
Colors depend on your taste. When choosing anything
other than navy, black, and grey, however, the tone of the shade should
be complimentary to your skin tone. There are warm shades and cool
shades of almost every spectrum of color. Fluorescent lighting gives
off cooler tones than halogen and warm lights.
The Details The
English suits are very sober with simple details such as lapels with
same size and three buttons on the chest. The flap pockets are known as
vents. English vents usually are with two slits, and the Europeans go
for one vent or none.
Formal Suit (dinner) Double Breast Business Suit Double Breast Sport Suit Sport Jacket Blazer Double Breast Seersucker
If
you are a frequent traveler, have two pairs of trousers made. A true
gentleman can have a wrinkled, worn jacket but he must have impeccable
trousers. It also may be a good idea to have a coat and shirt made. You
may also like the ties. Remember, English regiment ties or college ties
are only for the members of specific clubs and societies. To wear
something affiliated with an organization with which you are not a
member is considered bad taste.
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